Wyndham is only a relatively short distance from Kununurra
but we managed to find enough places to visit to fill a whole day.
It began with Molly Spring in a conservation area about 15
km west of Kununurra. It runs all the year and still had a substantial flow and
waterfall and was surrounded by pandanus palms. The swimming hole at the spring
was beautifully clear, but it wasn’t hot enough for a swim that early in the
day.
The next stop was The Grotto, a 300m deep gash in the earth,
which, in the wet season is a popular swimming spot. However there are 140
man-made steps to the bottom, with no handrail. Although we could see a pool of
water at the bottom, it still wasn’t hot enough for a swim, although we would
have needed another one if we had climbed down and then back up. It’s safe to
say the Grotto is not at its best in the dry.
The Cockburn Range is magnificent in this area as well. It
really dominates the landscape.
The area is truly the home of the boab tree. I’ve never seen
so many in one place as today. We also tried to sneak up to an eagle enjoying
fresh road kill. Couldn’t get close
enough for a good photo before he flew away.
Our next detour was to Marlgu Billabong, via the Old
Telegraph Station which had a key role during the sinking of the “Emden” in
World War 1. The whole telegraph station is now overgrown with boab trees
which obviously grow more quickly than I thought as they have all grown there
since 1921 when the station fell into disuse.
Marlgu Billabong was a total surprise. We had driven through
dry, mountainous and rocky areas for quite some time when suddenly the Parry
Creek Wetlands appeared. Flat, lush, green and water filled with abundant bird
life and water lilies. The Billabong is part of this system and is an amazing
tranquil place.
Next we travelled about 10km into Wyndham which is a town in
decline. It’s position as a port on the Cambridge Gulf made it possible for the
meat industry to thrive in northern Australia. Sadly it is no more. Cambridge
Gulf is at the confluence of 5 major rivers in the Kimberley region, and the
view from the lookout is worthwhile. A
nice place to have lunch while enjoying the view.
After lunch we set off down the King River Road to locate
further attractions of the area. A
natural rock spillway, some aboriginal cave paintings and boab tree used as a prison were on the list
so we set off to find them. The spillway was impressive, but would have been
more so if there had been water going over it.
The aboriginal paintings were much more worthwhile. We
scrambled up to a rock ledge expecting the paintings to be staring us in the
face. They weren’t. However we did find them after a while, mostly on the
underside of an overhanging rock ledge. Photographing them wasn’t always easy.
The next stop was the prison boab tree. Why anyone would
bother imprisoning anyone in a tree more than 20 km from the middle of nowhere
is beyond me. It is a very old and enormous tree, hollow in the centre. Not a
nice place to be imprisoned at any time.
We returned to Wyndham, topped our fuel again and headed for
Parry Creek Farm for the night. Tomorrow the Gibb River Road beckons, at last.
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