Karijini is a large Park about 200 km south of Millstream
Chichester NP, and is one of the most popular parks in WA, despite being fairly remote. The main
campground is about 100km from the nearest town, Tom Price, so you need to
watch your fuel fairly carefully. There are no food supplies either, except ice
creams at the Visitors Centre.
We drove from Millstream Chichester NP to Karijini along the
railway service Road, a private road owned by Rio Tinto. To use the road you
need a permit. To obtain the permit you need to watch a road safety video then
pay a gold coin for the permit. It's a relatively good dirt road that cuts off
quite a few km from the trip.
Private railway from the mine |
Hamersley Gorge, in the north western corner of Karijini was the first gorge we visited. It has fantastic folded layers and colours in the rocks, which have been twisted under pressure. I liked it the best because of the wonderful rock formations. There was a big pool of water and a waterfall at the bottom, but no swimming today.
Karijini has many gorges and is a mecca for those younger
and fitter than we are. David woke early one morning and did a walk for about
an hour, which was very energetic and out of character for him on this trip.
The next walk we both did was to Fortescue Falls. This is the same river as at
Millstream Chichester NP. Down some fairly steep and uneven steps to the top of
the falls I struggled, past workmen installing a new set of steps which will be
finished in a month or so. The botttom part has already been done. There was a
fatality on this walk in 2011 and the safety really needed upgrading.
From the top of the falls is an easy walk to Fern Pool, a very pretty place. There are massive fig tree roots entwined in the rocks, but also ferns growing in sheltered spots in the gorge.
We could have continued down the gorge in the opposite
direction but rock hopping down the rocks next to the falls seemed a bit unsafe
for me to attempt, my flexibility being somewhat compromised. Instead we viewed
the bottom of the gorge, and Circular Pool at the end, from above. Circular
Pool looked deep and forbidding and I'm sure was very cold as it hardly
receives any sunlight.
Most of the rest of the gorges are towards the others of the
park, about 50km from our campsite so we tried to see as many as possible in
one day. In hindsight we should have stayed at least one extra day and moved
our camp closer to the other end of the gorge. However we made the most of the
time and elected to view some gorges from the lookoutss at the top, and do only
one walk, into Kalamina Gorge. This gorge was quite wide at the bottom and was
generally fairly easy to navigate as it was mostly flat. You could see how many
other rocks have been worn smooth over time through the action of water.
Crocidilite, better known as asbestos |
We stopped at the lookout for Joffre Gorge and watched
nimble young people slide down rock faces with ease. Not for us any longer. At
Knox gorge there were wonderful columns of deep red rock, but as time was
running short we decided not to do the walk.
Our next stop was Oxer lookout where 4 gorges meet. Although
the labels didn't specify the names I think Hancock, Joffre, Knox and Oxer
Gorges meet at Junction Pool. This is a very deep gorge and the trees at the
bottom look tiny but are river red gums over 20 metres tall.
We decided not to visit Weano Gorge as it was getting too
late and we were getting a bit gorged out.
Our final stop in Karijini was at Mount Bruce. This high
point overlooks Rio Tinto's Marandoo mine, but the view was a bit disappointing.
However the wildflowers there were quite varied and possibly the best we have
seen. Pictures to come
We also met a young family there who recommended we stay at Parraburdoo
rather than Tom Price. Not only was the park much cheaper but there were lots
of washing machines and dryers and they were all free. This was a great
incentive, but an added bonus was that we could wash the car and camper there,
something we haven't been able to do, due to park regulations or lack of water.
Everything now looks quite a bit cleaner, but we will never get rid of all the
red dust.
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