Monday, July 16, 2012

Rockhampton and surrounding areas

10 -12 July

Rockhampton seems to be a similar size to Mackay but its accommodation options are much more limited. We had to phone 3 caravan parks to get a space. There is also no free camping allowed within cooee so everyone is forced to use the parks. We found a very nice park out of town at Gracemere.

Rockhampton calls itself the beef capital and has big bull statues at various locations around the town, most of them in spots where it’s impossible to photograph – like the middle of a roundabout or on a median strip on the main highway.
One of Rocky's big bulls

Instead of focussing on the city we decided to take the Scenic Loop Road to Yeppoon, about 30 kilometres from the city. When David found out that the Mercure Resort had not one, but two, world class golf courses that became our first port of call. Then he discovered it is only $55 to play in the competition, so now he is in golf withdrawal. The courses did look nice though. Well groomed, difficult bunkers and palm trees everywhere.
Capricorn Championship golf course
Golf clubhouse gardens

Next we visited the Rosslyn Marina just south of the town and ogled the fortunes sitting idle and growing barnacles. Some beautiful boats though. Cruises to Great Keppel Island also depart from here. Above the marina is The Bluff, where we did a short but very steep walk through rainforest to the top with a view of a fan shaped rock, and a blowhole. Right at the top was a wind-sculpted bush as well as a number of grass trees.   
Fan Rock
The walk on The Bluff
Wind sculpted plants

From Yeppoon we followed the road south along the coast through the village of Emu Park, where we collected some driftwood for a campfire sometime in the future when it stops drizzling. Emu Park has a monument, The Singing Ship, erected in memory of James Cook who named Keppel Bay in 1770. The statue “sings” in the wind.
The Singing Ship, in memory of James Cook, erected in 1970

Returning to Rockhampton we decided to have a look at the historic buildings along the main street and fronting the Fitzroy River. There are some beautiful old buildings built in the late 1800s, well maintained and restored.
Rockhampton Post Office
One of the main shopping streets
Heritage listed buildings
The old Rockhampton Club

As I took photos David started a conversation with a supposed local (a typical scenario) and discovered that the Prime Minister was in a meeting in the Old Bulletin Building, and she would be leaving in 10 minutes. So we hung around and met and had a photo taken with Julia. Up close she is very fair-skinned, attractive and personable, and impeccably groomed – made me feel quite under-dressed, David didn’t care. We were surprised how little security surrounded her and how modestly she was travelling – two ordinary sedans and a taxi bus for the hangers-on. 
The PM meets the people

The next day we took a short trip back into town to have a look at Rockhampton Botanic Gardens and Zoo. As it was a bit drizzly we just focussed on the Zoo which has a small range of animals, as you would expect in a regional area. They have chimpanzees and macaws, but most of the other animals are native. Their range of birds is impressive. Suddenly, when feeding rime for the chimps arrived a horde of previously invisible children arrived; the Zoo has great appeal for families with young children.
Salt water crocodile
A young dingo
Koala
Rainbow lorikeets at feeding time

As the rain is forecast to persist along the coast we decided that we might avoid it if we headed inland, so tomorrow it’s off to Blackwater, about 200 kilometres west of here.

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Mackay

29 June - 9 July

The drive from Clermont to Mackay marked a change from western environments to coastal. The tropics were immediately evident by the many palm trees. Add to that the sugar cane fields, then more sugar, then even more - you were definitely on the coast.

On the trip along the Peak Downs Highway we passed the Peak Downs Range, seen only in the distance here, and massive coal mines. The town of Moranbah is just off the highway, a town of about 7000 I had never heard of until recently. It was purpose built for the mines in the 1970s and is still very much a mine town.

Peak Range
Coal Dump
The police escort in front of this load of mine machinery nearly ran us off the road

We stopped for lunch at Nebo, a small town with a large colony of bats in the local park. There is also a distinctive old hotel which was graced by a couple of very smart Harleys out the front.

Some of the Nebo bat colony
Nebo Hotel. David deciding which Harley should be his.

Mackay itself is a large sprawling town with several suburbs. I went  shopping at Caneland, one of its major retail centres, and it felt just like Castle Towers. As I'm not ready to be back home yet the need to escape was strong. The surrounding areas are quite beautiful, as the pictures show.

Cane train engine
Typical Mackay scene. Blue hills and sugar cane 


The view from Slade Point, north of the city
Mackay marina. The breakwall has been designed for vehicles to drive on.

In Mackay we stayed with Rob and Shoney, and as it turned out the whole Langfield clan - except for the dynamic Penny - was there, so it was a lively time. We didn't camp around Mackay, except in the front yard, partly due to the State of Origin rearing its ugly head again.

However, we did a number of day trips around the district instead to Airlie Beach, Shute Harbour, Cape Hillsborough, Seaforth and areas north and west of Mackay

Airlie Beach
Sculpture - Dugong and calf
Unusual pedestrian sign at Airlie Beach
David testing the water at Airlie Beach Lagoon
View from the Lookout at Shute Harbour

We also had a small detour from Mackay to Sydney then to North Haven for Tracey's 40th birthday party. We had a very pleasant weekend with the family. The weather was fine and warm and no-one told the kids that the water was too cold to swim in in July. After an extended weekend we returned to Sydney then flew back to Mackay to resume our trip.


A Barbie cake requested by a 40 year old!
Happy 40th Birthday Tracey

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Clermont

27 June – 28 June

We ended up staying at Clermont for 2 nights, at Theresa Creek Dam. On the way we passed through a number of small places. Jericho – no walls for Joshua here; Alpha – despite meaning first, it wasn’t our first choice; we had heard Emerald was very busy so we bypassed it. Sapphire looked like a good choice but the Caravan Park was full. Rubyvale didn’t have much going for it.  These last two towns are located in extensive gem fossicking and mining areas, and the countryside shows the scars with mullock heaps everywhere.

The next town was Capella, a small town with an unexpected choice of facilities and sporting options – golf, cricket and football. But what surprised us most was that suddenly we had crops – sunflowers and a couple of unfamiliar ones. These were the first crops we recall seeing since just north of Burra, over 6 weeks and a few thousand kilometres ago.

There are obviously a few locals with a great sense of humour (or a competition to outdo each other) in naming their properties on the outskirts of town. They were Gunna Doo, Goengedit, What a Bugga and Thinc Big.

After 400+ kilometres we ended up at the next town, Clermont. We had heard that Theresa Creek Dam was an enormous site which had shower and toilet facilities, flat sites and cost only $10 a night. The site proved to be everything people had said. The dam provides water for the town but is also used for water skiing, and fishing. There is abundant bird life as well – rainbow lorikeets, apostle birds, egrets, and purple swamphens with chicks. Although the weather was a bit dismal it cleared up while we stayed there for 2 nights. It was a great spot I would be happy to return to.  It was nice to be able to relax for a while and allow some of our information overload to digest.
Above and below, scenes at Theresa Creek Dam



Purple Swamphen
Rainbow Lorikeets
We didn’t do a lot in Clermont but did have lunch and wander around their lagoon and memorials.  One of the memorials was to the 60 people killed in the 1916 flood. This catastrophe led to the town later being moved to its present site on higher ground.
The 1916 flood memorial, with the height of the flood indicated on the tree

Above and below, scenes from Clermont Lagoon


World War I sniper memorial
The town also has four old coal carriages painted with excellent murals. Clermont is near the edge of the Bowen Basin coalfield and is surrounded by coal mines, with great potential to increase their output. 
These four murals display the sources of wealth in the district, both past and present 



 We also visited some of the remains of the once thriving village of Copperfield near Clermont. Unlike Nuccaleena in South Australia it was a short easy trip to the Chimney, which was totally barricaded with wire. There is also an old General Store that we were fortunate enough to get a peek into. The Queensland Museum gatekeepers wouldn’t allow us in because of the danger of rats. Even when David told them about camping with rats at Mungerranie they were undeterred.
The Copperfield Chimney
The Copperfield Store, from the outside, and the inside below

Our next stop after Clermont is Mackay, staying with Rob and Shoney, so this is the end of the drier west and its big skies for a while, as we explore some of the coast. Hopefully we can now wear some of the summer clothes taking up space in our drawers.
No, this isn't a bushfire, it's a sunset after a few days of rain.