Monday, July 16, 2012

Blackwater

13 – 16 July

Our plan to avoid the rain was fairly unsuccessful as it rained all the way to Blackwater. We decided to stay Bedford Weir, a free campsite about 25 Kilometres from town. Unlike other places we have stayed there is a time limit of a week here, so you don’t get the multitudes of caravanners who head north for the winter and entrench themselves in a free camp for 3 months or so.

Due to the unseasonal rain the weir is overflowing, and the road across the river closed. The Mackenzie River, together with 2 or 3 other major tributaries flows eventually into the Fitzroy at Rockhampton. There is flood debris high in the trees near the weir from the 2010-11 major flood.
Bedford Weir in full flow, the road crossing closed

Blackwater is a mining town and calls itself the Coal capital of Australia, which is a pretty brave description. One of the local attractions is the International Coal Centre, which has a mining display even Craig would approve of.

Incongruously, next to the Mining Centre is a Japanese Garden constructed with the assistance of their sister city in Japan. Adjacent to the Japanese garden is one with an unusual collection of plants:  a poisonous plant called a cardboard cycad; A Queensland Bottle Tree apparently unrelated to the Boab tree, but looking quite similar; and finally a spiky, weird looking tree that looks like a cross between a pineapple and a frangipanni called a Pachypodium – obviously too unusual to have a common name.
Poisonous cardboard cycad
Baobab tree
Queensland Bottle Trees
Pachypodium
Blackwater Japanese Gardens

On the way back to camp we skittled a kangaroo – fortunately the car fared better than the roo. We checked out the weir to see if the water level had changed.  Yesterday several people were catching good sized yellow-belly. Today was the same. We had the easiest fishing expedition when an old man from town gave us two. He said he had a freezer full and only catches them because he enjoys fishing and gives them to the old pensioners who can’t get out to the weir any more He sat there chain smoking, reeling in the fish and told us he was 75 years old and keeps busy by mowing lawns around town.  
Generous local fisherman wih some of his catch
David cleaning his "catch"

The highlight of Sunday was morning tea catered for by the Caretaker’s wife Lynne who is a fantastic cook. It was well worth the $5 per head. They also provide soup and dessert on Wednesday nights. The couple who look after Bedford Weir campsite really go out of their way to make it a desirable place to stay.

At last the rain has stopped for a while, now we can begin to enjoy the area, although we have met and had campfires with some very nice people while we have been staying here.
Our load of wood waiting for a chance to be burnt

A beautiful sunset, with the promise of a fine day to follow
     




Rockhampton and surrounding areas

10 -12 July

Rockhampton seems to be a similar size to Mackay but its accommodation options are much more limited. We had to phone 3 caravan parks to get a space. There is also no free camping allowed within cooee so everyone is forced to use the parks. We found a very nice park out of town at Gracemere.

Rockhampton calls itself the beef capital and has big bull statues at various locations around the town, most of them in spots where it’s impossible to photograph – like the middle of a roundabout or on a median strip on the main highway.
One of Rocky's big bulls

Instead of focussing on the city we decided to take the Scenic Loop Road to Yeppoon, about 30 kilometres from the city. When David found out that the Mercure Resort had not one, but two, world class golf courses that became our first port of call. Then he discovered it is only $55 to play in the competition, so now he is in golf withdrawal. The courses did look nice though. Well groomed, difficult bunkers and palm trees everywhere.
Capricorn Championship golf course
Golf clubhouse gardens

Next we visited the Rosslyn Marina just south of the town and ogled the fortunes sitting idle and growing barnacles. Some beautiful boats though. Cruises to Great Keppel Island also depart from here. Above the marina is The Bluff, where we did a short but very steep walk through rainforest to the top with a view of a fan shaped rock, and a blowhole. Right at the top was a wind-sculpted bush as well as a number of grass trees.   
Fan Rock
The walk on The Bluff
Wind sculpted plants

From Yeppoon we followed the road south along the coast through the village of Emu Park, where we collected some driftwood for a campfire sometime in the future when it stops drizzling. Emu Park has a monument, The Singing Ship, erected in memory of James Cook who named Keppel Bay in 1770. The statue “sings” in the wind.
The Singing Ship, in memory of James Cook, erected in 1970

Returning to Rockhampton we decided to have a look at the historic buildings along the main street and fronting the Fitzroy River. There are some beautiful old buildings built in the late 1800s, well maintained and restored.
Rockhampton Post Office
One of the main shopping streets
Heritage listed buildings
The old Rockhampton Club

As I took photos David started a conversation with a supposed local (a typical scenario) and discovered that the Prime Minister was in a meeting in the Old Bulletin Building, and she would be leaving in 10 minutes. So we hung around and met and had a photo taken with Julia. Up close she is very fair-skinned, attractive and personable, and impeccably groomed – made me feel quite under-dressed, David didn’t care. We were surprised how little security surrounded her and how modestly she was travelling – two ordinary sedans and a taxi bus for the hangers-on. 
The PM meets the people

The next day we took a short trip back into town to have a look at Rockhampton Botanic Gardens and Zoo. As it was a bit drizzly we just focussed on the Zoo which has a small range of animals, as you would expect in a regional area. They have chimpanzees and macaws, but most of the other animals are native. Their range of birds is impressive. Suddenly, when feeding rime for the chimps arrived a horde of previously invisible children arrived; the Zoo has great appeal for families with young children.
Salt water crocodile
A young dingo
Koala
Rainbow lorikeets at feeding time

As the rain is forecast to persist along the coast we decided that we might avoid it if we headed inland, so tomorrow it’s off to Blackwater, about 200 kilometres west of here.

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Mackay

29 June - 9 July

The drive from Clermont to Mackay marked a change from western environments to coastal. The tropics were immediately evident by the many palm trees. Add to that the sugar cane fields, then more sugar, then even more - you were definitely on the coast.

On the trip along the Peak Downs Highway we passed the Peak Downs Range, seen only in the distance here, and massive coal mines. The town of Moranbah is just off the highway, a town of about 7000 I had never heard of until recently. It was purpose built for the mines in the 1970s and is still very much a mine town.

Peak Range
Coal Dump
The police escort in front of this load of mine machinery nearly ran us off the road

We stopped for lunch at Nebo, a small town with a large colony of bats in the local park. There is also a distinctive old hotel which was graced by a couple of very smart Harleys out the front.

Some of the Nebo bat colony
Nebo Hotel. David deciding which Harley should be his.

Mackay itself is a large sprawling town with several suburbs. I went  shopping at Caneland, one of its major retail centres, and it felt just like Castle Towers. As I'm not ready to be back home yet the need to escape was strong. The surrounding areas are quite beautiful, as the pictures show.

Cane train engine
Typical Mackay scene. Blue hills and sugar cane 


The view from Slade Point, north of the city
Mackay marina. The breakwall has been designed for vehicles to drive on.

In Mackay we stayed with Rob and Shoney, and as it turned out the whole Langfield clan - except for the dynamic Penny - was there, so it was a lively time. We didn't camp around Mackay, except in the front yard, partly due to the State of Origin rearing its ugly head again.

However, we did a number of day trips around the district instead to Airlie Beach, Shute Harbour, Cape Hillsborough, Seaforth and areas north and west of Mackay

Airlie Beach
Sculpture - Dugong and calf
Unusual pedestrian sign at Airlie Beach
David testing the water at Airlie Beach Lagoon
View from the Lookout at Shute Harbour

We also had a small detour from Mackay to Sydney then to North Haven for Tracey's 40th birthday party. We had a very pleasant weekend with the family. The weather was fine and warm and no-one told the kids that the water was too cold to swim in in July. After an extended weekend we returned to Sydney then flew back to Mackay to resume our trip.


A Barbie cake requested by a 40 year old!
Happy 40th Birthday Tracey